My guide for experiencing Tel Aviv Shabbat as an Olah Hadasha — from Friday day parties in Shuk HaCarmel to where to buy the best challah in town
As an Olah Hadasha (a new immigrant) to Tel Aviv, understanding the nuances of Israeli society has been a process. For me, one of the biggest culture shocks has been Shabbat. I was raised in a Conservative Jewish American household, which in my case meant occasionally sharing a Shabbat meal with my family before going out with friends on Friday nights. But after moving to Israel, I realized that Shabbat transcends its religious status here. Culturally, it’s part of the rhythm of life –– it’s observed by everyone in Israeli society, religious or not, in some way or another. By Saturday, nearly all shops and restaurants are closed, even in Tel Aviv, which is known for being more secular.
No one answers work-related WhatsApps or emails from Friday midday, and your favorite coffee shops, bars, and restaurants probably won’t be back open until Sunday morning (since the workweek in Israel runs from Sunday to Thursday-slash-Friday-morning-ish). Many Israel-born Israelis typically head home to share the Friday night meal with their families and many Olim (the Jewish immigrant community in Israel) gather for the meal together. But regardless of how you choose to spend Friday evening (even if it’s at home watching Netflix or at a restaurant on Nahalat Binyamin), you can still partake in the pre-Shabbat and Saturday ritual that’s so electric in Tel Aviv.
B’kitzor (in short), Shabbat is a whole vibe, and it happens every single week, whether you’re into it or not. Having now spent many weekends in Tel Aviv, I can confidently offer my recommendations for everything from where to buy certified kosher dishes to bring to your meal to where to grab a coffee on Saturday morning when you’re just not feeling very shomer.
Friday
Everyone’s pre-Shabbat schedule is a little different, but my typical Friday routine generally looks like this:
- Wake up early (this is relative, since Thursday is the biggest night of the week as most people have the day off or a half-day on Friday) and check-in with work –– tie up any loose ends and send any final emails before the weekend starts. Maybe workout, but also maybe not (lol).
- Get my Shabbat shopping done. For me, this means buying flowers for my home to welcome in the Sabbath, grabbing a challah to last through the weekend, and picking up kosher food or wine to bring wherever I’m going for Shabbat dinner.
- Meet my friends for coffee or day drinks until everyone leaves to get ready for the evening meal.
- Go home to get ready, go to Friday night services, or skip them and go straight to the meal.
Read on to find my tried-and-true pre-Shabbat spots:
Best place to buy flowers on Friday (Prachim l’Shishi)
Buying flowers on Friday for Shabbat is a common Jewish tradition. It’s something I’ve started doing since moving to Israel, and it’s become a small, lovely thing that helps carry the good vibes from Shabbat with me all week long.
- Shuk HaCarmel (Carmel Market): Specifically, the makeshift street flower stand at the bottom of the shuk at the corner of Kalischer and HaCarmel streets. I have really done my research for this one, having tried maybe 20 flower shops and stands around central Tel Aviv –– trust me, this is the best one. They have an extensive, beautiful variety of fresh, colorful flowers that last the entire week, and prices are relatively low compared to other shops in the area. Note that they ONLY accept cash (or Bit or PayBox, depending on the day), so come prepared.
- Honorable Mention: (Prachai Tzairi) פרחי צעירי is located just across the way from the aforementioned shuk flower stand and has a more official storefront. The flowers here are slightly more expensive but they are fresh and there is always a good variety. Plus, they accept credit cards.
Best place for premade kosher food dishes
This is great if you need to bring something to a Shabbat meal and it has to be kosher, or if you’re hosting and don’t want to (or can’t) cook a whole meal for a large group of people.
- Oh Mama: This is a Tel Aviv staple. It has multiple locations throughout the city and also has a dedicated “Friday shuk” where you can fill up your own containers (rather than have them do it for you at the counter), which makes it easy if you need to stock up. Oh Mama is delicious, kosher, and offers literally every type of food you can think of (including plenty of vegetarian options, too) –– think salatim, hummus, desserts, mains, sides, challah (though not my favorite), and everything in between. Note that it is a bit expensive, but in my opinion it’s worth it when you need it.
- Honorable Mention: Savtot Levashlot: This is essentially the same thing as Oh Mama and also has a good variety of tasty, kosher food, plus a Friday shuk. This one is located at the bottom of Shuk HaCarmel at the corner of Daniel and HaCarmel streets.
Tip for both spots: Make sure to go as early as possible on Friday mornings to avoid chaotic, overwhelming crowds (when it comes to food, Israelis can be pushy!).
Best place for rugelach and Shabbat pastries
Shabbat is the ideal time for a cheat day, so don’t be afraid to go hard with the pastries (especially rugelach, my personal favorite!).
- Ma’afiyat Chen (The bakery at the bottom of Shuk HaCarmel): Specifically, this bakery is located on Daniel street between the shop that says “Change” and the plant shop. There is no sign, but you’ll find it. I’ve tried an embarrassing amount of bakeries in Tel Aviv, and when it comes to rugelach, trust me, this is the best one by far. Don’t skip the sticky chocolate rugelach and the pistachio rugelach if they have it (make sure to get the ones at the counter –– don’t waste your time with the self-serve rugelach which aren’t as good!). This is a great, crowd-pleasing dessert to bring to your Friday night meal or Kiddush on Saturday morning (or hoard for yourself all weekend long).
- Honorable Mention: La Pane on Bograshov: The rugelach here is also pretty good and they’ve got lots of other yummy stuff, too. You also can’t go wrong with pastries from Le Moulin on Bograshov, but don’t quote me in specific regard to their rugelach.
Tip: It’s essential, especially when going to Shuk HaCarmel on Friday, to visit as early in the day as possible. This is to avoid the impossible crowds of locals doing their Shabbat shopping and tourists coming to experience the scene –– it’s truly a madhouse. For anywhere beyond the shuk, it’s still a good idea to go early to ensure availability of your favorite treats.
Best place for challah for Shabbat
Shabbat just wouldn’t be Shabbat without challah. After doing dedicated research into this topic –– I’ve tried the challah at 11 different Tel Aviv bakeries (and a few homemade challot at various Shabbat meals) –– these are my top recommendations:
- Roladin: I know it’s kind of basic since Roladin is a chain with locations throughout Israel, but I can’t deny, the challah and pastries here are delicious. I recently brought a loaf to a Shabbat meal and the hype was unanimous. It’s the best I’ve found, go figure!
- Honorable Mention: Le Moulin on Bograshov: Be sure to order the sesame challah. This place is also just a general vibe, and has authentic French pain au chocolat (these usually sell out by the afternoon, so go early) and amazing pastries. This bakery has been certified “authentic” by my very-French-about-these-things Parisienne bestie, so you know it really is the best around!
Best place for Friday (and Saturday) coffee
- Chacho’s on Ge’ula: This is my favorite spot in the city to meet friends for coffee, and it’s open on Shabbat. Expect good coffee and good vibes, with a solid mix of local and Olim clientele. There’s another location on Gordon with a similar feel, too.
- Honorable Mention: Nabi Yuna: Say what you will about Nabi, but one thing is for sure: come hell or highwater, it will be open! From Shabbat to Iranian missile attacks, you can count on the shabby, Mediterranean-chic outdoor couches to provide a hub for running into everyone from your most recent Hinge date to the neighbor in your building. While it will doubtlessly be a scene, if you’re desperate for a coffee, a sandwich, and a vibe, you can reliably count on Nabi Yuna to do the trick on a Saturday.
Best place for Friday day drinks
Something I didn’t know about Israeli culture before moving is that most people don’t have work on Fridays (or they’ll finish up around midday), so it’s common to meet friends for drinks on Friday afternoon, starting around 1 to 3 p.m. People of every age and demographic gather for coffee or drinks at cafes and bars throughout the city and catch up with friends before welcoming in the Sabbath.
By around 4 to 6 p.m. most everything starts to close, and people head back home to prepare for their evening plans. A friend once described this phenomenon perfectly as we grabbed coffee on Friday afternoon, and I think about it every week: She called it the Friday “sheket” (“quiet,” in English). The indescribable quiet of late Friday afternoon is a complete 180 from the chaos mere hours before. There’s no one left on the streets, all the shops are closing, and the city feels quiet and empty as the people prepare for Shabbat. It’s peaceful in an almost spiritual way.
But first, drinks:
- Kerem HaTeimanim: The best places for fun energy, music, and great vibes on Friday during the day are on the side streets off the Shuk HaCarmel in the Kerem HaTeimanim neighborhood. Start at Cafe Yom Tov to orient yourself, and from there walk all the way down Yom Tov Street to the very bottom of the shuk. There you’ll find Shufuni, which is another Tel Aviv hotspot with incredible energy, and the other restaurants on Simtat HaCarmel that go absolutely crazy on Friday during the day, too.
- Honorable Mention: Jaffa: Cafe Púa in Jaffa and the entire area near Shuk HaPishpishim (the Jaffa Flea Market) goes off on Friday afternoon and lasts until around 5 or 6 p.m. Shuk Levinsky is also a Friday vibe, though it’s a bit more relaxed than Jaffa or the Carmel Market.
Saturday
By the time Saturday rolls around, Shabbat is in full swing, and everyone relaxes in the way that best suits their lifestyle. For me, this usually means sleeping in late, cooking breakfast, going for a run on the Tayelet, then meeting friends for coffee or at the beach. For others, it’s going to Shabbat morning services then enjoying a Kiddush (which is basically a Shabbat brunch) with friends or family, then going on a walk and hanging out for the rest of the afternoon.
Most places are closed on Saturday during the day (though in Tel Aviv there are plenty of exceptions) and reopen in the evening. Because most Israelis have work on Sunday morning, going out on Saturday night can be hit or miss.
Conclusion
My best advice for celebrating Shabbat like a local is to lean into it. Things are closed and people aren’t typically doing much, so just enjoy the time to truly chill out and relax. Outside of Israel it’s rare to get the type of time where you must genuinely stop and rest, so the fact that it’s baked into the culture here every week is really nice. Enjoy it; Shabbat Shalom!
Love this roundup. Thanks for the fun pics and great recs and the translations!
-Shanna Fuld
Love this roundup. Thanks for the fun pics and great recs and the translations!
-Shanna Fuld
Thanks so much, I’m so glad you enjoyed it! xx
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